Arriving in Tokyo in sakura season — when Japan’s delicate, pale-pink cherry blossoms are in peak bloom — was bound to be busy. Not only were the most famous destinations chock-a-block with tourists, but nothing prepares you for the sheer size of this sprawling cities-within-cities capital, the world’s most densely populated (37.4m). Simply attempting to navigate busy train stations can take forever — an exercise in frustration (particularly when your phone’s GPS goes doolally, as mine often did) and sheer exhaustion!
On my first exhilarating sightseeing day in Tokyo, fellow writer Tamako took me to some top tourist spots (colourful Senso-Ji Temple; a relaxing Sumida River cruise to Hama Rikyu Gardens; the huge Meiji Shrine complex; the famously busy Shibuya Scramble Crossing; and trendy Harajuku, where fashionable Tokyo youths hang out on Takeshita Street). I was agog at the numerous pet cafés and whacky animé cosplay outfits (Makeru Jackson, hai!) littering the alleys. We said hello to Hachiko, the Japanese Akita dog who waited daily for his beloved master outside Shibuya station 10 years after his death, and enjoyed a delicious iced coffee and gluten-free matcha cheesecake at Shark Coffee, concluding with a wonderful dinner at Gluten-Free T’s, which specialises in adapting classic Japanese dishes (tempura, okonomiyaki, gyoza, ramen, miso and yakisoba, etc) for people who can’t tolerate gluten (my faves were the Cajun-fried chicken and beef yakiniku — I wish I could have tried everything on the menu as it was all delicious!).
By the time I returned to APA Hotel Roponggi Six — a comfortable business hotel in a great location, reasonably priced — I’d clocked up 23,500+ steps (12–13 miles) and had huge, red, hot-to-touch rashes and massive swelling on both ankles. Fearing cellulitis (fatal if untreated), I spent most of the next day trying to see an English-speaking doctor. Thankfully, NTT Medical Center prescribed antibiotics — not cheap, but necessary for doing lots more walking (7–8 miles per day, on average) and dancing.
It soon became clear this first very busy sightseeing day would be a template for the rest of my trip. Considering I came primarily for novel research, I rarely had time to journal. I barely slept, even in the luxurious 5* Hotel Okura in Huis ten Bosch or equally luxurious traditional Japanese inns (ryokans) with their wonderfully relaxing onsens — thermal pools with prescribed pre-bathing rituals and casual attire (kimono-like yukatas and slippers) — a blissful experience, guaranteed to induce satori (‘a state of indescribable, intuitive enlightenment’).
‘It was indeed the trip of a lifetime – virtually every day offered some amazing insight, experience or interaction’
Yet it was indeed the trip of lifetime. Virtually every day of my 18-day tour from Honshu to Kyushu offered some amazing insight, experience or interaction. Japan is a fascinating country; even when you get lost and end up wandering through some residential district as I often did, noticing little details outside people’s houses or seeing one of its many species of swallowtail butterflies or huge ‘bear bees’ grants moments of pure rapture. (As someone else said, ‘It’s the quiet places and moments that let you experience the best of Japan.’) Every landscape was imbued with flowering cherry trees, azaleas, rhododendrons, wisteria, camellias, irises and many species of trees, not only in serene gardens in ‘Golden Triangle’ cities (Tokyo, Kyoto and Osaka), but also growing wild across the country. You soon realise Japan is 70% forest — its rolling slopes resemble an undulating carpet of broccoli!
My solo-travelling adventure (a ‘self-guided itinerary’ with Gluten Free Tours Japan*) was roughly 6 days in Tokyo, with day trips to Nikkō and Hakoné; 6 days in Kyoto, Osaka, Nara, Himeji and Miyajima Island (Hiroshima); and 6 days in Kyushu, including four full-day guided tours with the excellent Yukihiro (Hero) of GoWithGuide. Most of it exceeded my expectations, with some delightful surprises (for travellers’ tips, see next blog).
Tokyo, Nikkō and Hakoné
There’s so much to see and do in Tokyo, not to mention, eat — Japan is a true foodies’ paradise, even for those like me with gluten intolerances — but it was wonderful to be there during sakura season; even at night, the blossoms magically transform the humblest streets. I had two fab nights out joining salsa musician Ayumi Suzuki for a live Latin-jazz night at Akasaka B-Flat and dancing at Studio Pepe, with shows and cake for DJ Angel Figueroa’s birthday. Salsa friends Chisato Sakagami and Nick Beaty also joined me at the Imperial Palace East Gardens (former Edo-era Shōgunal residence) for historical info amid its gorgeous gardens.
Exciting and dynamic as Tokyo was, the 2.5-hour day trip north via Shinkansen to Nikkō — rich in onsens and scenic nature (waterfalls, lakes, mountains) — was unforgettable. First, we took the shuttle bus to the immense, cedar-lined Tōshō-gu Shrine temple complex — the mausoleum Shōgun Iemitsu built for his grandfather Ieyasu (founder of the Tokugawa Shōgunate, subsequently venerated as a deity). I was particularly interested in the copper candelabra the Dutch East India Company (VOC) offered to Shōgun Iemitsu, which he was so impressed with (apparently because of its unique revolving mechanism) he granted the Dutch trading rights lasting from 1636–1860. There were so many other fascinating shrines, temples and details — such as the famous ‘sleeping cat’ above an entrance — but you can easily feel templed out!
We topped at stunning Shinkyo Bridge, subject of numerous paintings (see cover pic) and a sacred Shinto shrine, where Chisato paid respects to the kami (nature deities). I took the free shuttle bus to kitsch but historically illuminating Nikko Edo Wonderland. Set in a beautiful spring landscape studded with sakura, this Edo era-themed park features actors dressed as samurai, artisans, merchants, peasants, guards, oiran (courtesans), kabuki actors and ninjas. Although I missed the ninja show and oiran dochu parade — in which ornately dressed courtesans walk in their mega-tall geta shoes to flaunt their grace and beauty (see pic, bottom) — I still caught snatches of traditional kabuki theatre.**
Although I’d planned to visit YWAM Tokyo before leaving for Hakoné, I had to return to the doctor for tests (later confirmed as ‘Disney rash’, eg exercise-induced vasculitis). Thanks to two Japanese taxi angels, I miraculously made it to the hospital, got tested, got to Shinjuku station in time to validate my Hakone Free Pass, and made it to the Gora Kansuiro ryokan in time for my expensive gluten-free kaiseki (multi-course dinner). This meal was to die for: fresh sashimi, sticky rice, grilled lobster and scallop, wagyu beef, and a soup containing edible gold flakes, served since the Muromachi era (1336–1573). After a frenetic day, I gladly retired to my huge, private tatami-mat room before heading to the onsen for a soothing soak — a truly Japanese (and highly addictive) pleasure!
Waking to the hum of heavy-pattering rain on the tiled roof and the view of mist-covered trees and stone lanterns from my sliding shoji windows was unforgettable; I felt in tune with poets’ and artists’ centuries-long celebrations of the wistful transience of nature. The rain meant I missed seeing famously fugitive Mt Fuji; the pirate ship cruise across Lake Ashinoko was cancelled and the vermillion-red torii gate in the lake only partially visible. However, I relished walking the cedar-lined Tōkaidō (former tribute route to Edo), and caught the bus from Hakoné to the 400-year-old Amazake-Chaya Tea House to enjoy its traditional, warm amazake (a sweet, non-alcoholic rice drink). Next door, an empty but fascinating Tōkaidō museum showcased various kaga/o (hammock-like slings) used to transport wealthier travellers, officials and lesser daimyō.
Kyoto, Osaka, Nara, Himeji and Miyajima: Bucket-list delights
After taking the bus and train to Odawara, I validated my 7-day Japan Rail Pass and headed to Japan’s former imperial capital, Kyoto, for three nights. Alas it was still raining heavily, so I again missed glimpsing Fuji-san from the Shinkansen window.
Arriving late at my hotel — the wonderful Park Hotel Kyoto, with its friendly, helpful staff, excellent GF breakfasts and fab location in the centre of Kyoto, perfect for solo travellers — I decided to prioritise three sites in Kyoto, hoping to avoid busier tourist times (and any disrespectful behaviours). First, I visited Fushimi-Inari Taishi shrine, just in time to enjoy the sakura-lined canal at dusk and sample skewers of wagyu beef at the entrance. Most tourists were exiting then, so I was among a handful still processing through the shrine’s multiple vermillion torii gates at night — very atmospheric, if a little spooky. I later enjoyed sampling Japanese whiskies and gins recommended by the hotel staff.
The next morning, I took the JR train to Arashiyama Bamboo Forest. I had dreamt of walking among these gently waving bamboo trees forever; even though I didn’t arrive early enough to beat the crowds, I was so deliciously charmed by the beautiful Sōgenchi Gardens near the Tenryū-ji Temple that I floated in a dream-like trance through the bamboo grove, blissfully oblivious to their presence. The enchantment continued with a Sagano Scenic Railway trip to Kameoka and back, with gorgeous sakura overhanging the rushing Hozu River (see video). I spent a few hours relaxing by the river before returning to Arashiyama, where I had a delicious caramelised sweet-potato ice cream and curry dinner near the arty pillars dubbed ‘Kimono Forest’ — alas, by the time I returned, all of the kimono-rental shops had closed, so I missed out on this experience.
I returned to my hotel in time to attend a powerful, Spirit-filled meeting at Protestant church Kyoto Central Chapel, literally just around the corner from the hotel. As I mostly prayed and sang in the Spirit, God gave me several prophetic words and pictures for Japan, which I was able to share with the church, thanks to the wonderful Granny Makoto translating for me. Connecting with Japanese believers at this meeting was an unexpected blessing and a personal highlight of my trip.
On my last day in Kyoto, I had to await a prescription (with plenty of comic ‘lost in translation’ moments when asking the pharmacists for Canesten using Google Translate and hand signals, lol!) so couldn’t visit Gion as planned. However, I did make it to Kinkaku-ji Temple (aka ‘Golden Pavilion’). Perched on the edge of a large pond in the north of the city, the upper two floors of this Zen temple are completely covered in gleaming gold leaf — a stunning sight amid its peaceful gardens. I then said goodbye to Kyoto station’s striking tower before heading to Osaka for two nights.
Alas, due to dysfunctional GPS and pocket WiFi, I got lost trying to find my hotel from Shin-Osaka station (a supposed 7-minute walk took over an hour!); I also got lost looking for the GF Tours-recommended restaurant, so used Google Translate to order safe (and delicious) food from an Italo-Japanese restaurant. I also missed sampling Osaka’s famed Dotonbori street-food due to a last-minute hotel shuffle by GF Tours, but enjoyed Indian, Italian, Mexican and Japanese cuisines (plus tasty conbini [convenience store] snacks, like quails’ eggs paired with ham-wrapped cream cheese).
At least getting lost a lot meant I had a great chat with Aussie rugby player Hugh Phillips, who helped me find my way to the JR station on my way to Nara Park to see the famous bowing deer (you have to give them special crackers to bow; they can be quite demanding!). It was fun to hang out with the deer and see the Tōdai-ji Temple and its giant Buddha statues, which were quite impressive. Although I’d planned to dance at Shall We Dance Café after, there were problems with the JR train from Nara, so instead I had a wonderful chat over delicious sashimi and iced-plum saké with former London-based salsero Simon Perrott.
Although I debated going to Osaka Castle versus a day trip to Himeji Castle en route to Hiroshima, it was really no contest: Himeji is one of Japan’s best-preserved Edo-era castles (known as the ‘White Heron’ for its striking all-white exterior). It was a beautiful spring day, and the castle grounds were studded with glorious sakura; there were also actors dressed in Edo-era samurai costumes adding to the fun. I didn’t climb to the top as I also wanted to visit the nearby beautiful Kokoen Garden, with its ornamental ponds and collection of waterfalls, but went high enough to appreciate the castle’s strategic military advantage enabling lookouts to spot armies advancing from miles away.
Next, I headed to Miyajima Island to see the famous floating torii gate at Itsukushima Shrine. Taking the JR ferry from Hiroshima, I reached the island just after sunset. I stayed at ryokan Miyajima Hotel Makoto; although its GF kaiseki dinner was not as tasty or elaborate as Hakoné, the tranquil onsen, intriguing lobby artefacts and easy shrine proximity were worth it. I woke at 6am and wandered down the winding streets to the pier in my yukata and slippers, accompanied by herds of wild deer. I was rewarded by an excellent view of the floating shrine, unimpeded by the hordes of tourists who disembarked from the ferry later — it was just me, the shrine and the deer! Pure magic.
After a huge breakfast (grilled fish, sticky rice, eggs, fresh fruit and yoghurt), I returned to the pier to catch the return ferry. Although I boarded the wrong (regional) train back to Hiroshima, a Japanese woman very kindly got off to show me where to catch the Shinkansen. En route, I spied a tapas place; after struggling to communicate in Japanese, it was refreshing to chat in Spanish with the Japanese owner for a change! Although the JR journey to Nagasaki required a few train changes, it was incredibly relaxing, with generous leg room. I was pleased to feel I was finally getting the hang of Japanese train travel: standing patiently in an orderly queue behind the car number, and no longer confused about which trains, tickets or exits to use.
Kyushu adventures
I’m grateful my novel interests led me to visit Kyushu — not only is it filled with fascinating historical and UNESCO World Heritage Hidden Christian sites, but it abounds in pristine forests, dramatic cliffs, rolling mountains, white-sand beaches, active geothermal sites, mineral-rich onsens, countless islands and glorious wildlife. I’m also grateful for Hero’s knowledge, organisational skills and car to reach remoter places — I could never have managed these without his help!
First, we explored the vibrant cultural melting pot of Nagasaki, beginning with Peace Park/the Atomic Bomb Hyocentre Park. Set in the city’s former Ground Zero, it is now a lovely park, with several peace-themed statues donated by various nations. We then went to Dejima, the artificial island where Portuguese and Dutch merchants lived and traded from 1636–1860. It was filled with interesting exhibits and artefacts (VOC cannons, porcelains, and copious games to while away months and years of isolation). Next, we visited the 26 Martyrs Monument and Museum on Nishizaka Hill, overlooking Nagasaki Bay. Here, 26 Japanese and European Christians were brutally tortured and forced to walk barefoot from Kyoto before being crucified (as told in Shūsaku Endō’s novel and Martin Scorcese’s 2016 film Silence). As well as its many important documents and artefacts chronicling Japan’s early Catholic Christian history, the buildings’ mosaics and Gaudi-esque towers were also impressive.
We then went for lunch and views over the harbour from Mt Inasayama Observatory (though overcast, I later returned to take the ropeway cable car to the top for the glittering view over the harbour — one of Japan’s top night-time views). Next, we stopped by the 1864-built Ōura Cathedral, where Kakure*** Christians from Urakami Village shocked the world with their existence. We continued to beautiful Glover Garden, former home of 19th century Scottish merchant Thomas Glover, who contributed greatly to Japan’s Meiji-era industrial transformation; the gardens featured a statue of the celebrated Japanese diva noted for her role in Puccini’s Madama Butterfly, who is said to be modelled on Glover’s Japanese wife (she was not a geisha, however). Last, we visited Nagasaki’s Chinatown, built on the former Chinese quarter (Chinese merchants were kept in a walled-in enclosure paralleling Dejima). After a tasty GF Chinese dinner, I realised I’d lost my wallet in the car park — miraculously, it was still there!
Next day, Hero drove us to Shimabara Peninsula, heading south to Hara Castle Ruins — site of the infamous Shimabara Rebellion (1637–1638) that triggered Japan’s 220-year sakoku closure. Led by charismatic 16-year-old Amakasu Shirō (whose statue is on the grounds), Christian peasants and rōnin (masterless samurai) revolted against the oppression, taxation, persecution and starvation inflicted on them by non-Christian daimyō Matsukura Katsuie, whose family replaced the former Christian Arima lords; the rebels fought valiantly until being starved and finally executed. We then headed to Arima Christian Heritage Centre for further exhibits connected with the region’s turbulent Christian past before driving on to Shimabara Castle. Lastly, we visited Unzen Jigoku, a natural geothermal volcanic site filled with hissing fumaroles, where some 33 martyrs were grimly boiled to death or tortured to force them renounce their faith (also portrayed in Silence) between 1627–1631.
On the third day, we visited two Catholic churches in Sotome connected with hidden Christians — Shitsu and sister Ohno/Ono, now UNESCO World Heritage sites. We stopped to admire the sea view and visited gorgeous Saikai National Park before heading to Sasebo (home of the famous Sasebo burger) for a ‘99 islands’ cruise aboard the Pearl Queen cruise ship (99 means ‘many’; there are actually 240 small, mostly uninhabited islands, many of which were refuges for hidden Christians and wokou pirates). After this exhilarating cruise, I had a delightfully surreal stay at Hotel Okura in kitsch Dutch theme park Huis ten Bosch. The hotel, designed to resemble Amsterdam’s Centraal Station, is surrounded by windmills, Dutch-style buildings, bicycles and a mini-train station, with oompah music blaring from the lanterns along its tree-lined streets and views of Sasebo’s multiple islands behind a flat Dutch landscape. I enjoyed watching the illuminations from the 12th floor while indulging in a fabulous, truly five-star GF teppanyaki dinner (and onsen, natuurlijk).
For the last day, we drove to Hirado and Ikitsuki islands, both pivotal to Kyushu’s history of foreign merchants, Christianity and wokou pirates. I walked across the bridge separating the island from the mainland before visiting the restored Dutch Trading Post (the original was destroyed since the date [1639] referenced the Christian calendar; the VOC were then moved to Dejima). Hirado’s trading past is evident everywhere: the Dutch Bridge, wharves, well and stairs used for loading and unloading goods (silks, deerskins, woods, spices, guns, Chinese porcelains, etc) traded for Japanese silver, and statues of English pilot William Adams (the inspiration for Shōgun’s John Blackthorne), Dutch VOC chief and Hirado trade founder Jacques Specx and Englishman Richard Coc(k)sof the English East India Company. Alas, time did not allow a visit to Hirado Castle perched imposingly above the bay, but we did visit the Matsura Historical Museum to observe its important collection of documents and artefacts charting the history of this prominent clan and its interactions with foreign merchants.
After a tasty GF donburi (raw seafood with vegetables and rice noodles), we crossed another bridge to Ikitsuki, and Hero took me to visit another church connected with the kakure Christians on Ikitsuki Island, most of whom have since rejoined the traditional Catholic church since the ban on Christianity was lifted. I learned that the original hidden Christian sites I’d had in mind to visit had long since been demolished, and alas we did not have enough time to visit the archaeological remains of the former hidden Christian community at Kasuga Village behind Mt Yasumandake (venerated in Shintoism since ancient times and considered holy by Japanese Christians). However, we did stop to observe tiny, uninhabited Nakae no shima Island (aka ‘Martyrdom island’), where kakure Christians still perform Omizutori (‘water-drawing’ — collecting holy water for baptism), finishing with a stop at the dramatic Shiodawara Cliffs, whose 20-metre basalt pillars, birds and butterflies provided an enjoyable and relaxing break in nature.
Hirado trading factory founder
After saying a wistful sayonara to a region and country I could have easily spent months exploring, Hero drove me to Fukuoka for my final-night stay. It was raining heavily the next morning, so I went to meet Stuart Iles, whose blog on Japanese history and culture parallels many of my interests, in the RUST café/hair salon he runs with his Japanese wife. I’d thought I’d have time for final souvenir shopping at the airport, but alas no — I guess it’s another good reason to plan a return visit!
*Gluten Free Tours Japan is an Australian-run niche business specialising in helping coeliac and gluten-intolerant people enjoy the best of Japan without worrying about food issues (coeliac diseases is virtually unknown in Japan). Although I researched, booked and paid for most of my trip myself, I also paid GF Tours to help with bookings in some GF-friendly hotels and ryokans.
**See here for examples of kabuki.
***See here for a short video explaining kakure Christians.
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